The 2021 Atelier Aperti guide to the San Polo district
San Polo is the area of spices and commerce, undoubtedly the most animated district in Venice. From the Rialto Bridge, it crosses the heart of the city—the Rialto Market—continuing through Campo San Polo to Campo dei Frari.
It is a concentration of shops, restaurants, bàcari, and artisan workshops. The symbol of the district and of Venice’s commercial nature is the Rialto Bridge, which, like the Ponte Vecchio in Florence, houses small shops—particularly jewelry boutiques—within its arches.
There are many historical narratives and names in this area that recount the flourishing trade of the Serenissima. It is no coincidence that the banks at the foot of the bridge are called Riva del Vin and Riva del Ferro; the latter was once known as Riva della Moneta because international currency exchanges took place here. In the portico of the Campo di San Giacomo, known as San Giacometo di Rialto, stood the Banco del Giro: a veritable bank, to which the restaurant Bancogiro pays tribute today.
Places that have been alive for 1,600 years, such as the Pescarìa with its colorful and rich fish stalls, lead to the Erbarìa, once dedicated to the sale of fruit and vegetables, and to the strazzaroli, the first to use the concept of upcycled. The warehouses of the Naranzerìa, which today house a wine bar, were for the sale of citrus fruits, while the Beccarìa was for meat. These represent the must-visit area for Venetians at aperitivo time or for a quick cicchetto during a lunch break.
Furthermore, Ruga and Sotoportego dei Oresi and degli Spezier, known for jewelry, precious metals, and spices from the East, remain a reference point for sustainable shopping and high craftsmanship. Here you will find artist-jewelers who work with Murano glass beads with young and contemporary flair, fashion brands with garments made of seaweed fabric, and furlane slippers renewed by traditional style while always maintaining the uniqueness of a hand-crafted product.
Around this pulsing heart of exchange and wealth lies a more secluded and silent part of the San Polo district. This leads to Campo San Polo, one of the largest squares in Venice, and then to the House of Carlo Goldoni, a museum and theatrical library that is a precious treasure for scholars and theater lovers. It reaches Campo San Tomà, which boasts a renovated City Library, and leads to another record of grandeur: the Basilica di Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari.
The largest church in Venice displays priceless masterpieces: the funerary monuments to Canova and Titian, whose Assumption can be admired on the high altar. In the sacristy, we can see the Madonna and Child with Saints by Giovanni Bellini, and in the Chapter House, the panel of the Madonna and Child by Paolo Veneziano.
A masterpiece of architecture and painting is the Scuola Grande di San Rocco, entirely frescoed by Tintoretto. This is an extraordinary space where one can often attend meetings and exhibitions promoting the local area, such as the recent exhibition Color in Venetian Weaving featuring fabrics from Tessitura Luigi Bevilacqua, a company active since 1875 and located in the nearby district of Santa Croce.
The ateliers of Rialto and San Polo
- L’artistica Gioielleria
Jewelry shop and workshop, Sotoportego di Rialto, San Polo 66/67
Maigualinda Pirona is L’artistica: a jewelry shop and goldsmith workshop specializing in precious stones such as cultured pearls and amber, where necklaces, bracelets, and rings are also crafted in gold and silver.
You can contact her by calling the shop at 041 2412302, writing an email to lartisticamaia@gmail.com, or via Messenger through her Facebook page.
- Rialto 79
Lampwork beads, Campo de Rialto, San Polo 79
Jewelry and Murano glass beads: a precious gift for yourself or others. Two Venetian brothers create necklaces, earrings, and bracelets, combining the mastery of glass art with their own creativity and originality.
Discover the craftsmanship of lampwork beads by calling 0410992767 or through the Instagram account.
- La bottega dei Mascareri
Papier-mâché mask workshop, Campo San Giacometo, San Polo 80
Jesters, elves, and masks in the shape of the Moon and Sun, crafted in gold leaf, comprise the magical world of brothers Sergio and Massimo Boldrin, who have worked papier-mâché with great passion at the foot of the Rialto Bridge since 1984.
It is well worth a visit. Book an appointment by calling 041 5223857 or by writing an email to info@mascarer.com. You can also follow them digitally through their Instagram account.
- Il giardino di Pippo
Design studio, Sotoportego di Rialto, San Polo 64
Lorenzo, Carolina and Marco Marin are three talents of Venetian design. Awarded in international competitions for their lamps, furnishing accessories, and unique pieces created through the collaboration of Venetian companies and artisans, they are based in the studio in Sotoportego di Rialto, which is also a design studio you can discover on Instagram.
Meet the designers: call 041 3021940 or write an email to info@ilgiardinodipippo.com.
- Attombri
Artisan bead boutique, Sotoportego di Rialto, San Polo 65
Since the late 1980s, brothers Stefano and Daniele Attombri have been reinterpreting the history, techniques, and potential of Murano glass in a contemporary key, ranging between fashion and applied arts. In the atelier, they continue to work according to the Venetian tradition of the perlere (bead creators and stringers), expanding the potential of ancient knowledge with new creations of lamps, decorative and functional objects, and especially jewelry.
Book your visit at 041 521 2524 or via email at attombri@yahoo.it. The Attombri brothers are also on Instagram.
- Tabinotabi
Concept boutique, Sotoportego de Rialto, San Polo 63
Dresses, slips, baby dolls, socks, and blouse/trouser sets—fluid and relaxed in seaweed, mint, and banana fiber—are the iconic garments by Alessandra Defranza of the brand TabiNoTabi, an innovative project for contemporary and sustainable fashion. In the atelier, measurements are taken for personalized garments; book your appointment at 041 5285513 or write an email to Alessandra at tabi@tabinotabi.com. All models can also be viewed on her Instagram account.
- Piedàterre
The Venetian slipper boutique, Sotoportego de Rialto, San Polo
Since 1952, Piedàterre has paid tribute to the original Venetian friulane, known in Venetian dialect as “furlane.” These are handmade fabric shoes: comfortable and versatile for any occasion, thanks to their colorful nature and customizability for contemporary fashion with a unique style.
To contact the Rialto shop, call 041 8506574 or via WhatsApp at +39 3519052099, via email at info@piedaterre-venice.com, and to discover the palette and textures in preview, follow the Instagram account.
- Atelier Volante
Recycled paper becomes a fairy tale, Ruga Rialto, San Polo 777
Sofia Sarria is a sustainable artisan who transforms recycled paper into fairy tales and fantastic animals. Raised in Venice in her parents’ papier-mâché mask workshop, Sofia has craftsmanship in her blood. She continues to make traditional masks, but she enjoys playing with the materials and techniques passed down to her to experiment in new directions and find new inspiration for her creativity every day.
Her contact details are on Instagram, Etsy, or via email at ateliervolante@gmail.com.
- 2091 Venezia
Atelier and boutique, Campo San Polo 2091
A creative boutique where people dress, laugh, create custom-made clothes, and share passions and projects.
Giorgia Starace, the designer of the brand 2091 Venezia, takes clients’ measurements for tailor-made garments.
Announce your visit directly via email at lospazio2091@gmail.com or at the mobile number 347 0613203. If you want to discover more about her women’s fashion collection, follow her on Instagram for plenty of inspiration.
Where to stop for a starred experience
- Wistèria
Fondamenta del Forner, San Polo 2908
A new (Michelin) star illuminates the dining firmament in Venice. It is called Wistèria in tribute to the large wisteria that shades the outdoor tables during the summer season. The cuisine is a fusion of traditional Venetian gastronomy with creative, sometimes technically complex recipes featuring exotic and Asian ingredients.
Book your gourmet experience at 041 524 3373 or via email at info@wisteria-restaurant.com. Please note that the restaurant is closed on Wednesdays. Follow the Instagram account to fall in love with previews of the dishes.
The ecosystem of creativity
Atelier Aperti is an initiative to promote Venetian craftsmanship. It is a project by Venezia da Vivere, like Venice Fashion Week, the event that promotes Venice as a center of production and creativity, presenting fashion in Venice with runway shows and events.
The next edition of Atelier Aperti will be from April 12 to 30, 2022, as part of the Homo Faber program.
Would you like to be part of Atelier Aperti? Contact us via email at hello@veneziadavivere.com.
Photos are by Marta Formentello and Rossana Viola for Venezia da Vivere and by Settimo Cannatella for Wistèria.
